home  
   

Leak2

Deck to Hull seam

   
  My proposed solution is highly suspect. I don't know that the deck-hull seam is the source of the leak, but it's my best guess. My hope is that improvements to the deck-hull seam at least won't harm my boat (even if I'm wrong and it is not the source of the water leak problem). So, I am planning to proceed to do repairs/improvements to the deck-hull seam on the Sea Ray 390.
   
April 05

Rub Rail
Taco Marine makes replacement rub rails. Taco sent me a couple of samples, and for my boat I need to puchase the rigid rub rail,

V21-1025BK20D

Here is its profile (to the right).
   
  3M 5200 Sealant
I found the following online article (http://www.yachtsurvey.com/dealing_with_leaks.htm) pretty convincing, so I plan on using 3M 5200 as my sealant for the rub rail screws as well as for the deck-hull joint.
 

 
May 05 Boat in water
Unfortunately, I put the boat in the water, so I'll need to accomplish the rub rail replacement while the boat is in the water (can't leave the boat out until I complete this project, I'm just not that dependable).
   
July 05

Pull the Port Rub Rail
In spite of the fact that I have not purchased a new rub rail, I decided to go ahead and unscrew a large portion of the port side rub rail. Unscrewing the silvery top and then the black rub rail only takes 30 minutes or so, for a good 20' section.

Most of the screw holes are in good shape, so I fill them with 3M 5200 Sealant. Also, a large number of the screws are misshapen (bent and not straight). So I went to the hardware store and bought a bunch of new screws to replace all the bent screws.

With the holes still full of gooey 3M 5200 sealant, I reattach the rub rail. The results is a very nice looking, straight rub rail.

I've concluded that the leaks into my bilge are NOT coming from the rub rail. However, the rail look so nice, that I will remove the rest of it and reset it with new screws in 2006.